Setting Drag
Setting the drag correctly is essential. You can compensate for a drag that is too loose but with the drag being set too tight your line will snap with a big fish. The drag needs to be set properly and you can always increase the drag if needed but you cannot make up for a lost fish. I have seen lots of people and other website outlining techniques for using scales and complex equations for setting the drag on a reel and it is a total waste of time.

Setting The Spool Tensioner
The spool tensioner is what helps slow the spool down when casting. The more experience you get casting with a baitcast reel the less concern you will have with this and the looser and looser you will be able to keep this but if your getting backlashes or having trouble casting, setting the spool tensioner correctly is the best place to start. This is a quick and simple adjustment process.

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In my experience, the best way to find crappie is slow trolling with two rods, each with a pair of jigs, with the rigs set at different depths. In a typical reservoir start trolling breaklines of 10 to 20-foot depths and try the mouths of coves. Constantly monitor the depth finder for schools of bait and/or crappie. If you do not find them, try going into the coves and then try deeper waters. If you find promising structures, such as brush piles or beaver dams, stop and try vertical jigging, preferably with a single jig.
Once you find crappie vertical jigging is usually the best tactic, though sometimes trolling works better with moving schools.

Tackle and Tactics
Many crappie fishermen prefer ultralight tackle. That offers the most fun with these small fish, so I usually have an ultralight spinning rod rigged with 4-pound monofilament on a crappie trip. But my primary tools are medium/light to medium spinning rods rigged with 8-pound monofilament. There are two reasons for this choice. First, with this tackle I can usually free snagged jigs by a steady tension that opens the soft hooks of the recommended jigs. Second, and more importantly, it's almost a given with the methods I recommend that you'll hook something bigger.

Years ago I was moving to a new spot in Triadelphia Reservoir with the electric motors cranked to full speed, without bothering to reel in my trolling lines. Suddenly my soft, 5-foot ultralight rod doubled over with the rod tip whacking against the screaming reel. After a prolonged fight I boated a 2½-pound smallmouth. I figured my jigs were running no more than 2-3-feet deep over 40-foot depths. What that fish was doing so shallow on a warm, bright spring day is still beyond me.

Last month I trolled a weed edge in Piney Run at seven feet when line began peeling off my medium weight rod. The slugging fight ended with my netting a channel catfish I estimated weighed at least 8 pounds and, with its considerable girth, could have weighed a couple of pounds more. Trout, white and yellow perch, hybrid stripers, pickerel, smallmouth and largemouth have been part of my crappie fishing "bycatch" over the years.

My standard crappie lure is a 1/8-ouce jighead with a soft wire hook (often gold-colored) and a 2-inch curlytail grub in chartreuse or white. I usually fish a 1/16 to 1/32-ounce jighead with 1- to 2-inch grub above it. The smaller jig is tied on a 2- to 3-inch horizontal leg off a barrel knot and the larger jig is tied to the vertical leg 4 to 5 inches below the barrel knot. Lately I have been using a drop shot rig to attach a No. 4 hook and grub then tie on a 1/16th or 1/8-ounce jig four inches below.
Probably the most effective lure/bait for crappie is a small, gold-hooked shad dart with a live, lip-hooked 2-inch minnow attached.

Both this rig and the jig rig can be fished with split shot added above to reach depths quickly. They can also be fished below a slim (not round) clip-on or slip float, which controls depth and serves as a strike indicator. However, the fish are usually too deep in the fall to use a float.
Crappie can be taken on a variety of other lures such as small spinner baits; inline spinners; crank baits; marabou, tube or Beetle Spin jigs, and such baits as worms, grubs and crickets. However, it's tough to beat the two rigs above.

Trophy Crappies
Two words of advice: Be lucky. In our area, most crappie is 6 to 10 inches long. Further south, fish 3 to 4 inches longer are the norm. The standard wisdom is that bigger crappie are loners, not school fish, and are caught in heavy cover. That has been confirmed in my experience.

My biggest crappie weighed 2½ pounds on a certified scale, caught on a homemade spinnerbait out of a brush pile in a Maryland Eastern Shore pond. The fish taken by Harry Pippin appears to be in the same league. Note the heavy casting tackle and the skirt of the spinnerbait showing in the fish's mouth. This fish, too, was a bass fishing bonus.

Best Places
Liberty, Prettyboy, Loch Raven, Triadelphia and Piney Run Reservoirs all hold good crappie populations. They are also found, often in shallower waters, in Centennial, Little Seneca and Cunningham Falls Lakes and many Maryland and Delaware Eastern Shore ponds.
Shoreline fishing opportunities are limited in the fall; however, the Dulaney Valley Bridge at Loch Raven and Deer Park-Nicodemus Road Bridge at Liberty often provide good crappie action through fall and winter.

In summer, moving water and bass go together. If you can find moving water, you’re well on your way to finding and catching bass.
By Glen Lau as told to Ken Duke
Aug 5, 2011

More than any other season, summer has its good and bad sides. For the good side, summer is the most predictable of all the seasons, and bass patterns are the most stable. On the bad side, bass can become lethargic and difficult to catch at times. The best thing you can do is spend lots of time on the water and tune in to what the fish are doing and, just as importantly, when they’re doing it.

After the spawn, individual bass establish themselves in one of two groups: ambush feeders or schoolers. Ambush feeders are loners and take up residence in a specific place. They’ll stay there until the food supply in the area no longer meets their needs. Then they find a new feeding area. As their name indicates, they ambush their prey and rely on short bursts of speed to catch what they eat. As a result, they’re relatively short and stocky. Schoolers join together with other bass to feed as a group. They move with baitfish schools and tend to be longer and slimmer than ambush feeders.
Current Events

In summer, moving water and bass go together. If you can find moving water, you’re well on your way to finding and catching bass. Any current is helpful, but if the current is constant and reliable, it’s even better. Bass like current in the summer for several reasons. First, it brings food to them. Current also tends to carry more oxygen than water that’s not moving. This helps to keep the fish active.

For 20 years, I had a 5-acre pond behind my house. One summer I decided to conduct an experiment with current. I put an electric pump in the pond and ran a hose out toward the middle. When I turned the pump on, it created an artificial current. I left it on overnight so the fish could get used to it, and then I went out the next morning to do a little fishing. Casting a crankbait out into the current created by the pump, I caught bass after bass. Once I turned to pump off, eliminating the current, the bite fell off dramatically.

If you can’t find (or create) current on your favorite bass water during summer, you might try fishing at night. Especially in clear water, bass are more likely to feed at night than they are during the day. This is especially true of big bass. If you’ve ever wondered what happens to all the big bass once summer comes along, you’ll be interested to know that they shut down almost completely during the day, when most anglers are on the water. They move into the heaviest cover they can find, usually near deep water, and sleep through much of the day.

Yes, I believe bass sleep. On many occasions I’ve seen them resting on or near the bottom with just one gill moving and one pectoral fin holding them in place. When I swam up to them and touched them, they darted off quickly, so I know these bass were not sick or dying. Big bass are a lot like deer in that they typically become nocturnal during hot weather.
After Dark

If you’re interested in night fishing for bass, the best advice I can offer is that you not get started until well after dark. The period from sundown until then is usually unproductive. Some have speculated that the bass’ eyes are adjusting at this time and they’re trying to gain their night vision, but I don’t think so. Based upon my observations, between sundown and 10 p.m., the bass are moving and gathering. It’s not until later that they’re ready to feed. A lot of their activity depends upon the moon. Several days before the full moon is a good time to catch nighttime bass on surface lures. Prop baits are among my favorites. Cast them out and let them sit for 30 seconds or so before twitching them very slightly. I gradually increase how hard I’ll twitch the bait until I’m moving it about 6 inches at a time. It’s a terrific method after dark when the moon is almost full. My biggest nighttime bass weighed 12 1/2 pounds and hit a topwater bait.

Another tip that will improve your night fishing is to make sure you’re familiar with the area you plan to fish before the sun goes down. The last thing you want to do is disrupt the solitude of the darkness by stumbling into your area after dark, running your boat into a stump, making a lot of noise, flashing a light across the water or otherwise alerting every bass in the area to your presence. You need to slip in slowly and quietly with your trolling motor on the lowest speed. Your first cast needs to be right on the money, and you need to be there without the bass knowing about it.

If night fishing isn’t your idea of fun, you can still catch summertime bass during the day if you’re willing to put in the time and effort to do it. In Florida, where I live, summer seems to last six months or more. At the beginning of the warmwater period, there are times when bass feed voraciously, putting on weight after the spawn. When that’s happening, anyone can catch them. More often, though, the bass are selective about when and where they eat. This is when there’s no shortcut to time on the water, observing conditions and learning about the daily habits of bass on your favorite waters.

Dinner Bells
One of the key summer feeding periods on some of my favorite waters comes between 5 and 7 p.m. Here in Florida, in the months of May and June, those hours can be magic for big bass. Again, once the sun goes down, generally after 8 p.m. in the summer, the bite will likely shut off for a couple of hours. The “magic hours” may vary somewhat for you, depending on where you live. You’ll have to get out there and unlock the secrets of your lake to find out. That takes time and dedication, but it’s more than worth the effort. I’ll cover that in more detail later.

In the early 1980s, I enjoyed my best summer of trophy bass fishing. Over a period of 40 days in May and June on a single 50-acre lake, I caught 82 largemouth that weighed 10 pounds or more. They all came between 5 and 7 p.m., and I never would have found or caught them without learning their habits by going out day after day and observing. I caught most of the bass on 10-inch golden shiners. The biggest weighed 13 1/2 pounds, but I lost one that would have weighed at least 16 pounds. I used the big shiners to keep small bass away. You might think that I was catching the same bass repeatedly, but that’s not the case. I marked each big bass I caught before releasing it, and I only caught one of the 10-pounders twice.

Glen’s Secret
Summer is a great time to create your own feeding area. It’s a trick I use to activate bass when fishing is slow. To do it, you need a boat with an outboard motor, an area with weed cover that you know holds some bass, and a little patience. Start by driving into and through the vegetation, churning it up and generally disturbing anything that lives there. By tearing up the weeds and pads, you dislodge lots of small organisms and start a feeding chain. The predators — usually starting with bluegill — move in and begin to feed on the smaller forage. The bass come in to eat the bluegill.

Once you’ve gotten everything stirred up, it’s time to get into position. Put yourself within easy casting distance, anchor, wait and watch. It usually takes about 30 minutes for things to get going. Don’t mess it up by casting into the area too early. That could alarm the bass that are looking for an easy meal. Instead, wait until you see some bluegill moving in to feed or until you see signs of bass feeding on the bluegill. This technique is great almost anytime. There’s something about a feeding opportunity they can’t ignore, even if they’ve just eaten.

My favorite baits for this method are soft plastic craws and tubes. I fish them weightless or with a 1/8-ounce sinker. I like them to settle very slowly after they hit the water on a cast. Most of your strikes will come on the initial fall.
I call this method “Glen’s Secret” because I’ve kept it to myself until now. It’s absolutely deadly and will catch bass any time of the year when you have healthy green vegetation, though it’s at its best during the dog days of summer. Try it, be patient and let the bass come to you.

Looking for more sports scoop? You can count on Brooks to dish it up.
Jeff Kolodzinski completed the marathon fishing event Saturday from his post near Maynard's Restaurant in aid of the nonprofit organization Fishing for Life, catching 2,649 fish, myFOXtwincities.com reported.
"The Guinness Book of World Records [challenge] is most fish caught in 24 hours, so we went for the bluegills. They're smaller — you can catch a bunch of those, as opposed to walleye, musky or pike. So almost all the fish that we caught were bluegills, a few bullheads and a few crappies, but that was really it," the enthusiastic angler said.

The previous year, Kolodzinski set a world record at the catch-and-release event by hooking 2,143 fish in that time period, which was verified by Guinness.

Abu Garcia Revo MGX Selected Best Freshwater Reel at ICAST 2010

Behold the winner of the Best Freshwater Reel category at ICAST, Abu Garcia's Revo MGX, one of the lightest baitcast reels ever made.

• Details
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Abu Garcia Hi Speed Revo MGX Low Profile Baitcast Reel (12-Pound/115-Yard) List Price: $349.95 Sale Price: $280.25 You save: $69.70 (20%)   Eligible for free shipping! Availability: Usually ships in 24 hours 6 new from $280.25

Description

THE NEXT GENERATION OF EXTREME LIGHTWEIGHT DESIGNThe next generation of the REVOlution continues with the Revo MGX. The combination of an enhanced compact design with our ground-breaking X-Mag™ alloy frame and C6 carbon sideplates produce the evolution of ultra-lightweight low profile reel technology.More than mere lightweight design, the Revo MGX features a unique Infinitely Variable Centrifugal Brake (IVCB-IV™) that sets the standard for cast control in all other reels. • 9 stainless steel HPCR bearings + 1 roller bearing provides increased corrosion protection• One piece X-Mag alloy frame provides a super light yet extremely strong frame • Infini II spool design for extended castability and extreme loads• C6 carbon sideplates provide significant weight reduction without sacrificing strength and durability• Carbon Matrix drag system provides smooth, consistent drag pressure across the entire drag range• Aircraft grade aluminum main gear provides weight reduction without sacrificing durability• IVCB-IV Infinitely variable centrifugal brake gives very precise brake adjusents allowing anglers to easily cast a wide variety of baits• Compact bent carbon handle provides a more ergonomic design that is extremely lightweight• Flat EVA knobs provide greater comfort and durability• Ti coated line guide reduces friction and improves durability• Recessed reel foot allows for a more ergonomic reel designIVCB-IV™ BRAKE SYSTEM: The IVCB-IV is externally adjustable so you can quickly fine tune on the water. CARBON FIBER HANDLE: Compact bent carbon handle provides a more ergonomic design that is extremely lightweight.EVA KNOBS: Flat EVA knobs provide greater comfort and durability.X-MAG™ FRAME: The lightweight material provides exceptional corrosion resistance and rigidity for excellent gear alignment.C6 SIDEPLATES: C6 carbon sideplates provide 54% in weight reduction over aluminum without sacrificing strength and durability.

Features

• Abu Garcia Revo MGX Low Profile Baitcast Reel 12lb / 115yd Hi Speed

Reviews

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"GL2 has been a major player in our system since 1994," says G.Loomis' design engineer and angling enthusiast David Brinkerhoff. "It's been a very popular series for G.Loomis all the way back to the days when we called them 'regular' graphite in the mid-80's. With all of the raw material improvements, new components and processes we've experienced in the last twenty years, the timing is right. We've taken a painstaking amount of time to perfect these new actions, in some cases we've duplicated the tapers of our other species and technique-specific rods. They are lighter and much faster than their predecessors, not to mention a total new look."

Sporting a new logo design, "we took a page out of the success of our NRX series and put split-grip handles on the GL2 bass rods," adds Brinkerhoff. "They balance nicely and look sharp. The blank is a high-gloss maroon with a unique 'hour-glass' ergonomic rear grip that featuring alternating species cork and composite cork rings for a nice look and easy-to-grip comfort. The composite cork on the rear grip is flat on each side so anglers can tuck them under their arm without any discomfort, plus also provides just enough extra weight in the butt-end of the rod to balance them nicely."

The GL2 jig and worm rods, in length from 6-foot to 7-foot-5-inches, handle a variety of line and lure sizes. They have fast tapers for accurate, low-trajectory casts and powerful butt-sections to help move big bass to the boat with minimal effort. Power ratings range from medium all the way up to extra-heavy.

In the crankbait category, there are three 6-foot-6-inch and three 7-foot rods with powers ranging from medium to heavy. Designed to fish big swimbaits - even up to 10-ounces, there are two 7-foot-11-inch GL2 swimbait rods.

Rounding out the GL2 bass line-up are two 6-foot-9-inch spinnerbait rods with extra fast tips for better casting accuracy, two 6-foot-10 drop shot spinning rods to handle lines down to 5-pound test, and a versatile 7-foot-5-inch flipping stick that can also be used for heavy Carolina rigs and slow-rolled oversized spinnerbaits.

The new GL2 trout jig rods range in length from 4-feet-8-inches all the way up to 7-foot-2-inches, and sport line ratings ranging from 1- to 8-pound test. "These rods are modeled after our fiber-blend and GLX 'Trout Series' spinning rods," said Justin Poe, G.Loomis' global brand manager. "This dynamic group of ultra-light and light spinning rods cover all the bases for catching trout on bait, lures and most especially - marabou jigs. They all feature fast actions and light tips, with subtle power in the butt-sections for long-range casts and positive hooksets, and are designed to protect light line and still have enough power to handle even the biggest oversized surprises."
With alternating composite cork and species cork handles with small grips, Fuji barrels and hoods with a cork mid-body reel seat, the

GL2 trout jig rods include four 1-piece and two 2-piece models in the series."
All of the new GL2 bass and trout rods are backed by G.Loomis' popular "Wild Card" program, providing anglers with a one-time-only free replacement, no questions asked. In addition, they feature G. Loomis limited lifetime warranty for the original owner like all other G.Loomis rods. According to Poe, the current GL2 salmon, steelhead and light saltwater rod remain available in their existing GL2 colors and configurations for now. "We do have plans to include them in the new GL2 Series in the near future," notes Poe.

GL2 Use Recommendations
JIG & WORM Rods - Casting
GL2 722C JWR - A 6-foot rod capable of fishing a variety of lures and techniques. It's a great all around rod for fishing small to medium-sized topwaters, minnow-baits, small worms and light jigs extremely well. It has more than enough power to move a big fish for such a light rod. Really shines in light cover and clear water.

GL2 723C JWR - When fishing around a little more cover and need a little more power, this is an excellent choice especially when your in close areas where casting range is limited. It's designed to fish medium-sized topwaters, jigs and soft plastics. At 6-feet, it gives angler the ability to make short underhand casts with positive control - good for vertical jigging.

GL2 724C JWR - Now we're talking short, efficient power stick.When the cover is close and heavy you need a rod that can flick a jig or plastic worm under a bush accurately and pull the bass away from that jungle in a hurry, this is it. It's rated for up to 20-pound test and has more than enough power to handle big baits and big fish. A really good choice for big topwaters around heavy cover.

GL2 802C JWR - At 6'8", this is an excellent light jig rod with a softer tip for lighter line and a magnum-taper for managing fish of any size. It's the right choice for fishing 1/4 & 5/16, even 3/8-ounce jigs, especially for smallmouth or spotted bass in open water situations. Effective for pitching or casting in depths up to maybe 20-feet. It'll also handle topwaters in the 1/4 to 3/8-ounce size.

GL2 803C JWR - Day in and day out, one of our most popular all around actions for bass fishing, but don't let that fool you. While it's designed for casting jigs and worms for bass, it's capable of handling a number of different species, including small stripers, big pike, redfish and snook. It has a fast taper that provides excellent line and lure control. It's accurate and surprisingly powerful for a rod so light.

GL2 804C JWR - Here's where the rubber meets the road when it comes to fishing jigs and soft plastics! This rod has all the power you'll need to manhandle a good-sized bass especially in and around heavy cover. A power angler's rod of choice, it's light, responsive and has a very quick tip that gives you good castability and accuracy. Need to pull a big bass away from a dock or a submerged tree? This is the rod you want in your hands!!

GL2 805C JWR - When you need a rod that will give you total control, especially for magnum-sized bass in heavy cover, this is exactly what you need. It's magnum-power rating will allow you to pull a big bass right out of even the heaviest cover. This is the rod you want in your hands when it's time to give them the "no treatment"! Fish the thick stuff with total confidence and know when that big bites happens it's advantage angler!!

GL2 852C JWR - Yes, it's still a 2-power, but thanks to the extra length, the butt-section is slightly stiffer, making it a good alternative for fishing deep, clear lakes. It's a wonderful light jig and small worm rod, but it makes a great buzz bait rod thanks to the softer tip and the magnum butt. It will cast an unweighted soft plastic jerkbait a country mile. When the water is clear, the fish are spooky and you need to back off to be successful, this is a great choice.

GL2 853C JWR - The do it all, medium-heavy casting rod designed to fish medium-sized soft plastics, soft-plastic jerkbaits, 1/4 to 1/2-ounce jigs and big topwaters. The extra length (7'1") increases tip-speed, which in turn, extends your casting range, helps you recover line quicker and is a big help with hooksets, especially in deeper water. A great alternative for fishing 4-5" hollow belly swimbaits. Fish this rod for small stripers, pike or redfish. A great all around casting rod.

GL2 854C JWR - Our "heavy" power pitching stick designed for fishing in and around heavy cover. It's designed to fish big jigs and big worms in areas where you need to move fish away from trouble in a hurry. Excellent in deep-water applications where the extra length helps you move a lot of line with a swing of the rod tip. Whether a big bucketmouth heads for a bush in 25-feet of water or a blowdown on the bank, this rod will stop him... quickly!

GL2 855C JWR - You can "tell-em NO!" with this rod. It's a powerhouse that will double nicely for a back-up flipping stick with plenty of power for fishing big jigs, heavy line and oversized worms and lizards. Bass are ambush creatures and use cover to their advantage. When you need to put a bait into a tight spot in the middle of a bush, you need a rod that has the power to pull the bass right back out that same hole...now! This rod will do that in spades.

GL2 893C JWR - An extremely good medium-heavy jig & worm rod for areas where longer casts and positive hooksets are paramount for success. The extra length (7' 5") provides an incredible combination of tip-speed and magnum power in the lower half of the rod... a huge advantage when trying to keep fish out of trouble, especially in deeper water. When you set the hook with this rod you move an incredible mount of line. It's an exceptional fishing tool.

GL2 894C JWR - If you are fishing deep water in heavy cover for big bass, this rod is the answer. It's extra length (7'5") creates a very big tip arc that not only increases the tip-speed for longer casts, but it also moves a lot of line when you set the hook and that is a big advantage when you're fishing in heavy cover. It's like a flipping stick with exceptional castability!

JIG & WORM RODS - Spinning
GL2 802S JWR - If you need to fish lighter line because the water's clear and you're fishing smaller baits, this is an excellent option. Anglers that prefer 6 to 8-pound line will appreciate this 6'8" medium-power rod for both smallmouth and spotted bass. It's a good choice for swimming grubs, pitching tubes or dragging small soft plastics and jigs. Also fishes jerkbaits, small crankbaits and topwaters well for those anglers that prefer spinning over casting rods.

GL2 803S JWR - If you need to fish lighter line because the water's clear and you're fishing smaller baits, this is an excellent option. Anglers that prefer 6 to 8-pound line will appreciate this 6'8" medium-power rod for both smallmouth and spotted bass. It's a good choice for swimming grubs, pitching tubes or dragging small soft plastics and jigs. Also fishes jerkbaits, small crankbaits and topwaters well for those anglers that prefer spinning over casting rods.

GL2 804S JWR - When you're fishing in close around heavy brush and you need a little more power, this is a great option! Fishes big jigs and soft plastics well, especially creatures baits and 6-8" worms. An excellent choice for skipping baits under docks and overhanging brush. When you need to move a fish away from trouble, this is a good rod to have in your hands. Will handle extremely large fish and keep them coming towards the boat.

GL2 852S JWR - A medium-power spinning rod with extra length for fishing deep, clear lakes. It's a perfect choice for fishing light jigs and small worms, dragging tubes or soft plastics and the combination of a softer tip and a magnum butt makes it's a great rod for fishing an unweighted, soft-plastic jerkbaits and topwaters. When you need to back off to be successful, this is a great choice. The softer tip helps extend your casting range, but the power in the butt helps put pressure on even the largest bass. A wonderful tube rod for the Great Lakes.

GL2 853S JWR - The do it all, medium-heavy spinning rod designed to fish medium-sized soft plastics, soft-plastic jerkbaits and jigs. The extra length (7'1") increases tip-speed, which in turn, extends your casting range, helps you recover line quicker and is a big help with hooksets, especially in deeper water. A good rod for 4-5" hollow belly swimbaits. A great all around spin rod for freshwater and even light-duty saltwater!

GL2 854S JWR - An excellent heavy-duty, magnum-tapered spinning rod for fishing in and around heavy cover. It's designed to fish big jigs and big worms in areas where you need to move fish quickly before they can get you tangled in the brush. The extra length helps you move a lot of line which is really important in deep water, whether you're dragging big soft plastics or jigging spoons. Catfishermen will love this rod for fishing small rivers and lakes with bait. It's a powerful, versatile rod .

CRANKBAIT RODS - Casting
GL2 783C CBR - A great all around open-water crankbait rod designed to throw medium-sized crankbaits of all styles... shallow runners, lipless cranks and small deep-divers. A great shallow to medium-depth bait rod, especially where accuracy is more important than distance. It works well in close quarters due to the shorter length. It loads easily, is extremely lightweight and has more than enough power to handle big fish.

GL2 784C CBR - A combination of a little more power and the ability to fish a broader range of crankbaits makes this an excellent choice for fishing jerkbaits, lipless-vibrating baits and square bills. It doesn't have the range of the longer rods, but it's excellent when fishing in close-quarters, especially where you need a little more power to keep fish away from weed edges, shore cover and brush.

GL2 785C CBR - When you start fishing slightly larger lures, especially around more cover where you may need a little more power, this rod is a great choice for all styles and sizes of crankbaits. It's a great choice for fishing 1/2-ounce Traps & Spots with the versatility to cover a lot of water and manage large fish. Fish this rod over grass, around brush and sawgrass with little fear of losing fish to the cover. It has a surprising amount of power for such a subtle, soft-action rod.

GL2 843C CBR - A 7' one-piece rod designed to throw medium-sized crankbaits. It's a great rod for deep-diving lures like a Fat Free Shad or Wiggle Wart, and will throw a Rat-L-Trap or a Lucky Craft LVR that proverbial country mile. It's stout enough to handle big largemouth, but light enough to fish smallmouth baits with maximum accuracy and control. The extra length really helps with longer casts and fish-fighting control.

GL2 845C CBR - When you have to resort to deep-diving crankbaits to dredge up a bass or two, this is the rod you'll want. It's extremely light, so sensitive you can feel a big bass watch your bait and so responsive, you're ready for every move they make. It's designed with a slower action to allow your bait to work properly and absorb any move the fish makes. It's a great, long-distance casting rod for medium-sized deep-divers of 5/8's ounce or less and is surprisingly powerful.

GL2 847C CBR - When you're throwing large, oversized deep-divers like a 3/4-ounce Fat Free Shad or a DD-22, this is a rod you'll really appreciate. It's got the power to make extremely long casts, fish the baits as deep as they can run and handle any sized fish. An excellent choice for fishing the grass and over humps in deep-water situations. Will handle small swimbaits as well as any rod we make and talk about long-distance casts... this is it!

SPINNERBAIT RODS - Casting
GL2 811C SBR - A nice light, extra-fast spinnerbait rod. It has a light tip for fishing smaller blades, but a stiff butt-section makes it surprisingly powerful. The length (6'9") creates a high tip-speed which is important for long casts and better lure and line control, especially important in shallow water where fish can be very spooky. It's a great choice for fishing light line in those clear lakes and rivers where you need to down-size your blades to be successful.

GL2 812C SBR - This is our best all around spinnerbait action. It's designed to fish the heart of spinnerbait sizes... 3/8 to 1/2 and will handle virtually every style of blade bait. It's a nice combination of power and flexibility... not too stiff, not too soft. Short casts, long casts, under cover, over cover... it doesn't matter. You'll be able to see the blades work by watching the tip. It's got all the right stuff and did we mention it's light and sensitive?

SWIMBAIT RODS - Casting
GL2 956C SWB - Designed primarily for the medium-large swimbaits in the 7-10" class where power to cast the bait is just as important as the power to fight the fish and keep it away from trouble. It's light for the incredible power it possesses, but you won't be tired at the end of the day because we've made the handle with balance and leverage in the equation. It's just what the doctor ordered for a case of "big bass fever" and you can cast these baits that proverbial "country mile"!

GL2 957C SWB - Now were talking the big gun - the magnum! Over-sized swimbaits... the 10- to 16-inchers that get you the really big bite are what this rod is all about. It's power personified and handles these big swimbaits extremely well. At almost 8-feet, it's meant to make mega-casts to help you cover a lot of water and when the big bite happens, you'll be in total control. If you are into fishing the giant, mega-sized swimbaits, this is the rod you want in your hands

DROP SHOT RODS - Spinning
GL2 821S DSR - This rod features a light tip with a magnum powered butt-section. It's designed for open water and depths of up to around 25-30'. It really shines for smallmouth and spotted bass in those clear water lakes where you need to downsize your line. When the bite gets tough and the fish need something a little less intrusive, this is an excellent option. The light tip helps telegraph the bite while not letting the fish feel the angler and when it comes down to fighting the fish, any size fish, it has more than enough power in the butt to do the job.

GL2 822S DSR - A slightly more powerful drop-shot rod designed for deep-water and fishing around cover. Soft enough in the tip to be effective, yet powerful enough to pull a good fish away from trouble. The heavier designation allows you to fish 10- or even 12-pound line as deep as 60-feet if that's where you find 'em. It's designed for fishing those lakes where brush and tree-tops are the main cover and fish holding areas, like Lake Mead, Lay Lake or Lanier. One second the fish is mouthing your bait, the next thing he knows he's in the net.

FLIPPING ROD - Casting
GL2 894C FPR - Modeled after our very first flipping stick, this is a very versatile rod. Bass anglers will use it to throw heavy Carolina-rigs, slow roll oversize spinnerbaits, and muscle largemouths out of deep-water weed beds. Muskie fishermen will use it for big bucktail spinners, creature baits and mega-tubes, salmon anglers will use it to back-bounce bait and the saltwater crowd will use it for tarpon, but the bottom line is... it's a Flipping Stick - an extraordinary one at that!! GL2 gives you incredible power for such a lightweight rod, durability and our legendary G.Loomis reliability!

TROUT JIG RODS - Spinning
GL2 561S TJR - A delightful light-duty, one-piece spinning rod for fishing small streams. It's especially nice for brush-lined creeks where accuracy is important and there's not a lot of casting room . It will make a gem of a panfish rod, balancing perfectly with 4-pound test line

GL2 600S TJR - A great option when the fish are small and the water is crystal clear. It's soft enough to protect whisper-thin line, matching perfectly with 2-pound test line. Surprisingly powerful, ultra-soft and unbelievably light. The epitome of an ultra-light spinning rod!

GL2 720S TJR - A soft-action spinning rod with a little more length when the streams allow more casting room and the fish have more space to play. The 6-foot length will extend your casting range a bit and provide very forgiving power when the trout are spooky, particular and stubborn.

GL2 861S TJR - A good choice when the water is a little deeper and swifter. It is incredibly light with a subtle power that makes fishing larger creeks and small streams easy. This is a good rod for a youngster. It's soft, forgiving and will cast an eighth-ounce spinner a country mile. When that surprise, big fish comes along it won't let you down.

GL2 782-2STJR - A wonderful 2-piece rod that will handle big trout, both in large streams, rivers and lakes. Will allow you to fish a variety of lures and bait combinations including jigs, spinners and even small minnow-imitating plugs. It's designed for longer casts and fishing deeper water. From crappie to bluegill, small bass to big rainbows and browns, it's a delight to fish.

GL2 841-2S TJR - An incredibly light, 2-piece spinning rod, designed for lakes, small streams and rivers where longer casts are required for you to be successful. The extra length and fast-action make this a great jig rod and you can fish long leaders for shy 'bows, browns and brookies . Enjoy drifting single salmon eggs for big trout? This is the fun alternative!

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When you are talking about springtime jig tactics for bass, for many of us in the Midwest this is what kicks off the new bass season. Bass that have spent the winter months under hard water are now starting to make their ways into the shallows first to eat and build up energy then second to get ready for the upcoming spawn. Knowing that the bass are on the move what are you fishing for springtime bass?
If I was limited to just one choice of lures when it comes to the spring bass bite, my choice would have to be a jig and pig combo. In fact to narrow it down even more, I would pick an Outkast RT Jig tipped with a few different plastics as a trailer.

As bass start their ways into the shallows they will make a few stops on the way before they get to their shallow destination. Point and drop offs will be the target when they start to move. If I had to choose one I would favor points first then drop-offs second. One of the best ways to find these areas is have a lake map. You can do this in two ways you can get a paper copy or use a nav chip that will show you the lake right on your GPS. I prefer to use both. With a paper map I can pre-scout areas that I think will hold bass before I even put my boat into the lake. Then with my Humminbird 997 w/GPS and my Navionics chip I can drive right to these spots take a quick look to see if fish are present and start fishing. This way I am spending the majority of my fishing time on high percentage areas that should hold bass at this time of the season.

When the water gets warmer, bass will start to use the shallows more, fanning out when they hit the shallows covering more water during their day as they look for food. If the weather holds, they will move shallower every day getting to new areas. But if they are faced with cold front conditions they will pull back to the areas that they are coming from the points and drop offs. The magic depth bass will hold in is 8- to 12-feet.

One key here look for points and drops that have green weeds. Green weeds are the first cover bass will find as they move shallower. If you are fishing a lake that the weedline is shallower the bass will be shallower or if the weedline is located deeper the bass will start there. Outside weedline depth will have to do with the water clarity, the clearer water lakes the weeds will grow deeper than they will in dirtier water lakes.

As long as we are on the water clarity issue, use these two different clarities to your advantage when springtime bass fishing. In the spring dirty water lakes will warm faster than clearer, deeper water lakes. Use this when you start the season and when the bass in the dirty water lakes start to spawn. The temps in the dirty water lakes can be as much as 3 to 5 degrees higher than a clear water lake located a few miles down the road. Bass in the dirty water lake will be active and start their springtime rituals before the bass in the clear water lake will. As the bass start to spawn in the dirty water lake bass in the clear water lake will just hit the drops waiting to move into the shallows. When the bass are finished spawning in the dirty water lake the bass will just be starting to spawn in the clear water lake. By using the two different water clarities against each other you will have a better chance at staying on active bass through out the early part of the springtime season.

Once you have found the areas that you think are holding bass come the fun part fishing. To cover all fishing conditions carry all three sizes of the Outkast RT jig in your box and a few different colors. The RT jig comes in 3/8-ounce, ½-ounce and ¾-ounce. My favorite colors are Pumpkin Chart (PC), Green Crawdad (GC) and my standard Black Blue (BB).

For trailers I use a few different Outkast products. For the majority of my fishing I will use an Outkast Chunk (3.25). If want or need a smaller profile I will use the (2.75) size chunk and team this with a 3/8-ounce jig for a smaller profile bait or again with the 3/8-ounce jig if need a faster fall when the bass are aggressive and feeding. If I am looking for a different look or if I am doing a combination of fishing the RT Jig in a traditional way on the bottom or if I am mixing in a swimming retrieve I will use a Fat Tail Grub as my trailer. I will especially use this combination in shallower water conditions when the bass move into the shallows letting me not only target pinpoint areas but cover water in between too.

One new combination that I have been playing with the last few years with great success for bigger bass has been to tip my RT Jig with an Outkast Naughty Bug. This larger profile appeals to larger bass and give the bass a new look that they have not seen before. The Naughty Bug is a bigger profile than the Chunk or the Fat Grub Tail making the jig fall at a slower rate, staying in the strike zone longer. Also the bigger profile of this bait seems to attract bigger bass to bite the jig. The combination of these two factors just seems to add up to bigger bass in the spring.

So if you are looking for big springtime bass make sure you tie on a jig. When fishing during the springtime play with your trailer combinations to make your jig offering not only change its look but change how the bait acts.

Springtime means blue catfish fishing to many anglers in the south. On a lot of southern lakes and rivers the powerful and tasty blue cats begin biting in earnest as the water temperature warms, feeding on the remains of local baitfish like shad or bream that have been chopped to pieces by largemouth bass or stripers riding high in the water column.

The key to catching blue catfish in the spring is knowing their tendencies. Although you could get lucky and catch one fishing with worms or minnows during the day, the real action is at night and comes with cut bait fishing.

Spring is a time of action for freshwater fish. Lots of runs are going on, such as shad running in lakes and rivers and bream taking to beds and perch swarming the shallows. These smaller fish are in turn being fed on by feisty largemouth bass, spotted bass, striped bass and, yes, catfish. A lot of this action takes place near the top of the water column.

Blue catfish get involved in some of this chasing down of smaller fish, but what they really love to do is scavenge underneath all this spring activity and pick off the pieces of meat left when bass or stripers rip through pods of bait. This gives them an easy meal without having to work a lot for it.

Blue catfish really get going as the sun sets, prowling the warmer and shallower areas of lakes and rivers on the bottom, using their whiskers to detect pieces of dead fish that have been part of the springtime feeding sessions. They fan out and go slow searching the bottom for their supper.

To catch them you have to practice simplicity and patience. In areas where blue cats are known to roam they will be there each spring, but you might have to sit and wait on them awhile. Eventually they'll come to you though, if you have the right offering.
The best bet by far to use on spring time blue catfish is fresh cut bait. No other bait will catch them consistently. That makes for fun fishing, as you can spend the daylight hours catching your bait. Depending on the fish in your local waters, you will need freshly caught bream, shad, or perch to cut up for bait.

Really any small local fish that is in the system will work. Blue cats are not like channel catfish, so don't worry about going for the oldest, stinky bait you can come up with. What you need for blue catfish is fresh cut bait, as that is what they will be feeding on.
After that it is just a matter of getting it to them. The best rig is a fishfinder rig with an egg sinker that allows them to pick up the bait without feeling the sinker. The current in the areas I fish is rough so I use a three ounce weight, but yours will vary…the point is that the rig has to be on the bottom. After the sinker I tie on a swivel and then a length of 25lb test mono leader and a 1/0 hook. If you fish where there are huge blue cats you can up the hook size if you like.

Blue catfish are great fighters and really terrific eating. They yield firm white meat fillets that are delicious in many catfish recipes. They are out there right now just waiting on you to catch them!